ALCHEMIA - THE DESIGN OF TIME

ALCHEMIA - The Design of Time, a 2x2 meter art installation, is inspired by how time can act as a designer through a series of alchemical processes and how this can contribute to a new understanding of what it means to design. By looking at processes like oxidisation, friction, sedimentation, Beatriz rethinks her own creative practice by including tarnished and worn materials. Whilst navigating the universe of natural patterns and abstractions, the artist reflects on how she can take time as a creator, allowing this reflection to lead her to innovative materials and processes, as well as breaching the barriers of how embroidery can be conceived.

Inspired by the work produced by textile artists dedicated to the research of biomaterials, ALCHEMIA is an example of how embroidery can be revolutionized by a co-creation with other non-human actors, like “time” or “nature”. Surrounded by organic inspiration, like meteorites, marbles and other sedimented rocks, the artist produces a piece where there are no linear or self-contained shapes: every element is shredded, rough, diffuse, allowing the audience to be immersed in this haptic universe. The creative approach of Iris van Herpen's transposition of unattainable natural elements, like water and smoke, resonates in Beatriz's practice and leads her to explore unconventional materials to create the effect of organic designs.

In this piece, starring as the main part of the design is an exploration of latex rubber, that, once peeled from a plastic base, scrunches up and creates folds that are organically disposed in the design – a process that is completely led by the materiality, putting the artist in the passenger's seat. This is then reappropriated by the artist, who embellishes, through highly specialised hand embroidery techniques, elements that push even further the materiality of this organic aesthetic. Without controlling every step of the process, Beatriz allows the materials she has chosen – such as different types of repurposed leathers and fabrics, crystals, goldwork wires (an embroidery material and technique traditionally found in military pieces) and tarnished and salvaged chains and bits of found jewellery – to dictate the direction of the creation.

ALCHEMIA is, hence, a signature piece of Beatriz's style of creating and sets her apart, presenting an innovative approach to embroidery, be it in terms of scale, process or materiality.